chapter 4: the cloth
look like a king !, feel like a king !
Its often said in the tailoring world that "the cut" is the most important element of a well made suit.
But why have one, without the other.
Suiting cloths have come long way since the olden days, when they were heavy in weight and the texture was coarse to the touch. Climate change and heated rooms have made these kind of fabrics undesired. Technology has also been a major contributor in the way they look and feel, Nowadays suit fabrics are much lighter in weight and softer to the touch, and with a thousands of them available choosing the perfect cloth can be a task in itself. But remember this, you will always do well to pick a cloth that is as heavy as you can cope with for the purpose of the suit – it helps with the way it drapes.
With over 4000 cloths to choose from in our collection, at Sartorial Rebels we take great care in the quality of cloths we supply. To make the process less daunting, we consider looking at magazines or online, for ideas and references that may help you.
Sartorial Rebels uses only the finest cloths in the world.
Below are just some of the cloth houses we use.
Holland & Sherry
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit with Holland & Sherry cloth
Starting from £849.99
Since 1836 Holland & Sherry has continued to supply prestigious tailors and luxury brands with some of the finest cloths in the world. Stephen George Holland and Frederick Sherry began the business as woolen merchants at 10 Old Bond Street, London, specializing in both woolen and silk cloths.
By 1982 the business moved to Savile Row, which remains as there registered head office. Holland and Sherry are constantly engaged in research for ever fine and more luxurious fibres and fabric qualities; sourcing the finest natural fibres, ranging from Super 240's, cashmere to pure worsted Vicuña. A bespoke tailored garment in luxury Holland & Sherry cloth is truly an investment and always a pleasure to wear.
The Masterpiece Gold Collection III
Created from the very finest commercially spun yarn available, this new collectionfrom Holland & Sherry is a true masterpiece.The Masterpiece Gold collection is woven from a Super 180’s wool worsted, 14.5micron, 140/2 new metric yarn count. Evolution and years of selective breeding have produced merino sheep with fleeces of ultrafine wool.
By selecting the best quality fibres, which have a longer than average length, the wool can be spun to the finest count withfewer protruding fibres.The Masterpiece Gold merinowool suiting collection is of the finest quality of yarn that can be produced.
Loro Piana cloth
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit with Loro Piana cloth
Starting from £739.99
What more can you say about Loro Piana. It is without doubt the most luxurious fabric maker around, with there Record Bale range being the most prestigious range in the world. As unique and precious as jewels, Record Bale fabrics represent the best of the world's production of select wools. Every year, Loro Piana buys the "Record Bales" of the year (the bale of the finest and best quality wool) in Australia and New Zealand, the countries that have historically produced the most select wools.
Another sumptuous rang is there Tasmanian® range. In Italian, Tasmanian® has become a synonym of "light wool fabric" (it says so in the dictionary). This extraordinary worsted fabric takes its name from the island of Tasmania, south of Australia, because it was originally made using only the merino wools coming from its uncontaminated lands. At 250 grams per metre, Tasmanian® (which is also available in the versions Summer Tasmanian® and Winter Tasmanian®) offers the lightest possible fabric for dressing elegantly in every season of the year.
These are just two of the many magnificent ranges provided by Loro Piana
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit with Scabal cloth.
Starting from £959.99
At Scabal everything starts with cloth. For over 75 years they have been at the forefront of innovation and sophistication in weaving. Based in Yorkshire and utilising the area's soft flowing water, Scabals weaving mill produces suitings that are of unparalleled quality hence providing the best tailoring cloths.
Scabal also special edition cloths, with their most exclusive being the diamond chip collection. The iconic collection was the very first of Scabals pioneering luxury fabrics to incorporate precious stones within the weave. By crushing pure diamonds into fragments they are able to directly blend them into super 150s and pure silk suiting. The result is a thread that shimmers in the light giving garments a subtle luxurious glow alongside a soft feel and drape.
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suitwith Dormeuil cloth
Starting from £699.99
The history of The House of Dormeuil is interwoven with the constant search for the rare and luxurious. Dominic Dormeuil explores breeding farms around the world each year to select the most precious fibres and produce exceptional fabrics. in 1842 Jules Dormeuil had the idea of importing English fabrics to France, joined by his brothers Alfred and Auguste in 1858 the company has been at the forefront of fabric manufacturing.
The area surrounding Leeds in the United Kingdom, where Dormeuil’s fabric manufacturing premises are located, is the birthplace of the international textile industry. It was here, amongst the lush green valleys irrigated by Pennine water with its unique properties, that the best worsted weavers and the leading experts in fabric finishing set up in business more than a century ago.
It is already 25 years since Dormeuil created one of the most beautiful fabrics of modern times. Amadeus captures the essence of brilliance and beauty, reflecting the perception of Mozart’s music. Now one of the House’s flagship creations distilling the inventiveness and knowledge associated with Dormeuil, this fabric is synonymous with performance, comfort and excellent drape. Made from pure Merino wool, Amadeus is a high-performance fabric with a remarkable handle that comes from its secret finishing in Dormeuil’s traditional manufacturing premises in England.
Vitali Barberis Canonico
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit in Vitali Barberis cloth
Starting from £685.99
With the first recorded document of wool producing activity from the Barberis Canonico family dates as far back as 1663.
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit with Harrisons cloth Starting from £659.99
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit with Bateman Ogden cloth
Starting from £599.99
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit with Dugdale cloth
Starting from £689.99
Sartorial Rebels 2 piece suit with Dugdale Bros & Co cloth
Starting from £689.99